Exploring Latin-ish: A Conversation with Marisel Salazar and San Antonio Local Chefs
On August 25, we had the privilege of hosting Marisel Salazar, author of cookbook Latin-ish, for a book signing and panel discussion at Down on Grayson. Latin-ish explores the evolution of American-Latino cuisine, a fusion shaped by immigration, diaspora, and the melding of cultures over time. Marisel drew much of her inspiration during her 1-year stay in San Antonio and couldn’t have imagined a better place to write her cookbook.
The panel that followed brought together local chefs from diverse American-Latin backgrounds. Chef Emil Oliva, of Leche de Tigre, grew up in Laredo, Texas and spent much of his childhood in Peru. Chef Alexana Cabrera, of Mixtli, grew up in Guatemala with an American mother from Iowa and a Guatemalan father - experiencing both cultures equally. Chef Jonathan Reyes, of Chika, is a proud San Antonio native from the Southside and West Side. He traveled extensively throughout his culinary career but ultimately returned home to his roots. Marisel herself was born in Panama of Cuban descent and comes from a military family with a personal history shaped by the places she’s lived and the foods she’s encountered along the way.
One theme that resonated throughout the conversation was how American-Latino cuisine is often poorly understood or celebrated in the broader gastronomic world. Chef Jonathan spoke passionately about shifting perceptions of Hispanic and Chicano culture - not just locally in San Antonio, but on a national and even global level.
During the event, Marisel discussed the often misunderstood and criticized Tex-Mex cuisine - sharing how it emerged from conversations with editors who once dismissed their meal as “not traditional.” Yet, in her book, she pushes back against that notion - framing Tex-Mex not as inauthentic but as a legitimate evolution of food that speaks to the larger American experience. As she noted, salsa now outsells ketchup, and tortillas outsell bread - a clear indication that American-Latino foods are American foods. She emphasized that while we may romanticize the dishes of our ancestors, we are living in a time of culinary celebration where these "new" traditions have a rightful place at the table.
When asked where they see Latin cuisine evolving, the chefs expressed optimism. Chef Emil hopes to see more recognition for sauces and the rich flavors of Peruvian cuisine, while Chef Alexana sees the arrival of the Michelin Guide in Texas as an exciting opportunity to shine a spotlight on small businesses and underappreciated culinary gems. Marisel agreed, noting that Texas and especially San Antonio (one of only two UNESCO Cities of Gastronomy in the U.S.) is poised for greater national and international recognition. Chef Jonathan echoed this, adding that the Chicano influence is not just regional but global - stretching from East L.A. to East Tokyo.
As the panel wrapped up, we asked the chefs what their comfort foods are. Chef Emil shared his love for Aji de Gallina, a creamy, spicy Peruvian chicken dish. Chef Alexana finds solace in a simple meal of scrambled eggs, refried beans, and thick Guatemalan tortillas. Marisel also chose Aji de Gallina, calling “saucy chicken and rice” her "death row meal," while Chef Jonathan reflected on the simplicity of a warm flour tortilla with butter and salt - a humble yet deeply comforting “hug” in food form.
San Antonio’s food scene continues to grow and evolve, and this event was a beautiful reminder of the role our city plays in shaping the future of American-Latino cuisine. We are excited to see what our city does in the coming years with the stage it’s been given.
Marisel’s Latin-ish is more than just a collection of recipes; it’s a celebration of the diverse and evolving landscape of American-Latino cuisine. Through her recipes, she showcases how food connects us to our heritage while embracing new influences from across the country. Be sure to pick up or order your copy of Latin-ish.